I went on a “Fam” tour of Williamsburg, Brooklyn earlier
this week. (“Fam” is short for
familiarization tour.) There are four cultural groups of Brooklyn Heights –
hipsters, Puerto Ricans, Italians, and Hassidic Jews. My “fam” tour took place on September 18, the
first day of Sukkot this year.
I want to talk a little bit about the Orthodox Jewish
community in Williamsburg. There are
many different Hassidic movements in Orthodox Judaism, but it is said that the
Satmar movement is the largest and most influential in existence today. The movement actually did not begin in
Israel, it began in Hungary and Romania by Grand Rebbe Yoel Teitelbaum, the
Rabbi of Satu Mare, Romania. In German,
the town’s name is Sathmar, and the Yiddish-speaking population used the name
Satmar.
The largest Satmar community today is in Williamsburg,
Brooklyn. The Satmar first came to New
York after World War II. They were hard
hit by the nazi troops and dispersed.
Led by Rabbi Teitelbaum they arrived in New York just before the
creation of the State of Israel.
The Satmar are an isolated community. When you enter their section of Williamsburg,
it is like entering another world. The
Satmar Jews use their own bus system, have signs posted in Yiddish, dress in
the complete Orthodox fashion, and will use cell phones but do not use
computers. (Despite this – they are
somehow on twitter. https://twitter.com/Satmar_Brooklyn ) The
adult women all wear wigs called “sheitel” or scarved called “tichel” on their
heads because natural hair is meant only for their husband. The men do not cut the hair on their
temples. These long uncut sidelocks are
called “payots.” The men also wear “Tzitzis,” long white threads that hang off
of the four corners of their tallit (Prayer shawl.) Men and women are married very young, often
as early as 17 in marriages arranged by matchmakers, though the marriages must
be consensual on behalf of the couple and the couple’s families. (This is not “Fiddler on the Roof.”) It’s incredible how the Satmar are able to
preserve their isolated culture and secularism amongst one of the most
socio-economically and ethnically diverse cities in the world. They succeed so well that many did not even know
what happened on the fateful day of September 11, 2001. All they knew was that smoke rose from the
distance in Manhattan. I take my
previous statement back. In many ways,
this IS “Fiddler on the Roof.” Their
traditions keep them alive and balancing in the ever changing world.
When I first entered this isolated Satmar community, it was
during the first day of Sukkot. Sukkot
is the “Feast of the Tabernacles” and is a weeklong harvest festival. Sukkot literally means “booths” which refers
to the temporary dwellings that Jews lived in during their 40 years of
wandering in the dessert after the exodus from Egypt. During Sukkot we are supposed to reflect on
how fragile we are without the shelter of our homes and bodies. During these seven days, Jews are supposed to
live in temporary huts called “sukkah.”
During my trip to Williamsburg, the roads were filled with sukkah, some
rather tiny and some large enough to fit over a hundred people! Sukkah must have three walls, made out of any
material, but the roof must be made from “sekhakh” which means material that
comes from the ground such as tree branches, bamboo reeds, palm fronds, or
others forms of wood.
While I was there, the Satmar Jews were carefully examining
palm fronds. The reason for this is Jews
are commanded to hold four plants and wave them together during Sukkot. These four plants are: etrog, lulav (palm
frond), hadas, and aravah. It is
extremely important to get the very best of each plants for your observance of
Sukkot, so people will examine each plant for hours trying to make sure they
get just the right one. Sometimes,
magnifying glasses are even used.
After finding just the right plants, Jews can go to their
sukkah and wish everyone “chag sameach” which means joyful festival.
So as you walk up and down the street this week, if you see
Orthodox Jews standing outside of subway stations or on the sidewalks with palm
fronds and etrogs, you know why and can wish them a very joyful festival.
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